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Well as I should have expected my 4 gallons of liquid in the primary turned into only 2 gallons of non sludgy wine in secondary. So I sucked up a gallon of sludge to make up the difference.

I hope that you didn't pour out the rest of the sediment, next time pour it into bottles or jars, and put it in the fridge. You'll be surprised just how much more wine there is in it after it settles. Dale.
 
Thanks to this thread I am giving pear wine a try now. I

had 300# of pears this year on my 2 trees. A lot were bruised because the tree is too tall and I shook the rest out. Long story on the trees being so unmanageable. It wasn't really my doing.

So anyway, I let them ripen and put them in fermenters in 2 batches. One is with Montrachet yeast and one is with EC-118 yeast. Both batches have been pressed now and are under air locks in fermentation pales at this point.

So, we will see how it goes.
 
Montrachet is a good culture, as far as flavor goes--it was the first culture we used on pear. But you'll see how harsh the acid is with Montrachet on SOME pears and it can take a good 2 years in the bottle for that acid to mellow out. That's why we moved to 71B for pear made from Bartllets.
 
It can be but only to a certain point. I'll let Turock answer this for you as he will have a more precise answer good luck:b
 
Steven---Yes, calcium carb should be used to adjust the PH. Otherwise, what's the alternative other than using water. You don't want to water-down your pear. Cold stabilization needs potassium carb AND cold stabilization is usually used for acid reduction. We don't CS any of our wines. But we DO use lots of calcium carb--which needs to be used pre-ferment. We like our pear to have a PH of 3.3 to 3.4
 
Chokepears, what we need in the US to make our pear wines into Perry, the pear version of crabapples! Pyrus ussuriensis WVMJ
 
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