Spraying for fungus

[jandrew156]

Hi,

I'm going to start spraying Mancozeb for the fungus control, but was wondering about the instructions...which are very confusing...



The last line states only 3 applications per season, but above it says when the shoots are 1.5", 3-5", and then 8-10". Then at 7-10 day intervals... which would be a whole lot more than 3 applications!!!

Anyone know what this is all about?

Thank you in advance!

 

[Rice_Guy]

Hi,

I'm going to start spraying Mancozeb for the fungus control, but was wondering about the instructions...which are very confusing...
The last line states only 3 applications per season, but above it says when the shoots are 1.5", 3-5", and then 8-10". Then at 7-10 day intervals... which would be a whole lot more than 3 applications!!!
Anyone know what this is all about?

Young tender growth is easy to infect. . . the key on the products I have are # initiation of shoot growth # flowering/ fruit set
I rotate what I use and will switch from a fairly old formula sulfur to the modern synthetics with the logic that I want to knock fungus back but don't want to contribute to resistance development,, and a week to 10 days is about right. Mancozeb has a long delay before harvest, must be fairly toxic (efficient on fungus).

 

[jandrew156]

...but what about the max 3 applications???

Also, would you know the best time of day to spray? morning, mid-day, evening?
I've heard early morning so the sun dries off the moisture, but would mid-day damage leaves?

 

[Rice_Guy]

...but what about the max 3 applications???

Mancozeb is not the only fungicide, I rotate what I use/ I try the minimum exposure since I will drink the wine. If the label says 3 times, I would try three with that chemical, MAXIMUM. There is something called integrated pest management, the local extension recommends when to spray/ what to watch for. For the midwest my big driver is black rot ,,, otherwise I would not spray a fungicide and essentially before I collected northern hybrids with vinifera genetics I didn't.

Also, would you know the best time of day to spray? morning, mid-day, evening?
I've heard early morning so the sun dries off the moisture, but would mid-day damage leaves?

#1 when there is no wind
#2 if the day is rain free
grown up on the farm the spraying was done at the convenience of the application person, no rain and light wind. My plants are 15 minutes out of town so from a practical point of view it seems I never get anything out before 11, I try mid day but have done 6pm especially if there was some wind and I put an organophosphate out for insects. I have not seen problems related to leaf damage. (growing in the midwest)

 

[salcoco]

I am not sure what the three applications limit means, but I and another friend with a vineyard applied every two weeks per instructions without ill affects to the plants.

best time to spray --any part of day as long as wind was relatively calm. recommend using a mask when spraying.

 

[Rice_Guy]

I am not sure what the three applications limit means, but I and another friend with a vineyard applied every two weeks per instructions without ill affects to the plants.

best time to spray --any part of day as long as wind was relatively calm. recommend using a mask when spraying.

I should apologize for my point of view. Folks in the Quality lab down the hall were licensed pesticide applicators who treat food production areas. They would be quickly unemployed if they did not follow the label. The label is an EPA approved document.

A label will typically list the maximum dosage per acre for farm usage. The intent is to keep toxins from building up creating am environmental hazard.
East of the Rockies the limit is 19.2 pounds per acre per year.(28.7% active ingredient) Yes it can be applied every 7 to 10 days. West of the Rockies the limit is 3 treatments per season (6 pounds per acre per season maximum) (ie it is dry in California so fungal pressure is less).
There is a 66 day wait from the last treatment till you can harvest (ie the residual is high and it is an effective chemical that hangs around. I haven’t looked for the lethal dose50% of the test population. You don’t want to expose yourself directly to it. Second hand exposure as touching plants after dry is ok.
All in all it is a good chemical and the EPA thinks it is safe enough to let unlicensed applicators buy it.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Mancozeb is very effective for our area and I use it on both fruit trees and grapes, but I only use it twice a year, and never less than 66 days PHI. I also use Captan, Immunox, and Serenade (biological). Immunox is an important one for me as I sue it more than the others as a filler. I've included a chart that I developed to aid me year to year. It is dymanic and I make changes from time to time. If a product says yes, then that means the product label says it treats the listed disease. The numbers indicate observed effectiveness. You'll have to piece this together as I do this on a spreadsheet and it's doesn't translate well to a file that this forum uses, but I hope this helps.

 

[GreenEnvy22]

I rotate through 4 different sprays, each with their own "action" for controlling fungus.
Manzate Pro-Stick (Mancozeb), Pristine, Kumulus, Switch.
This helps keep fungus from developing resistance to one type.

Interestingly, Manzate is 75% mancozeb, but only has a 30 day PHI.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Hmm, didn't know that. Wonder why the difference. It may have something to do with the binding agent used. And I meant to say that rotating helps from developing a resistance, which is what I do. I also have fruit trees, so that has an impact in what I spray with. I use the same sprayer for everything and if I can mix it the same, it cuts down on time.

 

[Masbustelo]

I use mancozeb and micronized sulfur roughly until July 1st. Then Immunox once and then switch over to organic sprays (Serenade, Actinovate, Bi-Carbonates) and until harvest. But I'm not a commercial grower.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Neither am I, but it sounds like you have it down. Does it work for you?

 

[Masbustelo]

I haven't had any problems. My understanding is that the endemic infections happen relatively early in the season. The mancozeb and sulfur should handle things up front. The second half, you need to be proactive. Spray before it rains, maybe after, depending. Maybe weekly sprays versus ten days. After July first, I rotate my sprays. I probably have a five product spray rotation. My problem is what looks like magnesium deficiency showing up late in the year. But I haven't had any mildew problems with Verona or Petite Pearl.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

My biggest issues are downy mildew and Japanese beetles. And yes, early treatment with Mancozeb is in my program, as well as Captan (in the form of Bonide Fruit Tree spray). Everything gets an early dose of Bonide FTS here. Do you use dormant oil during the off season? I usually does thing down around February when I get a mild day.

 

[User196221]

Google Penn State grape spray schedule.....lists recommended chemicals and when to spray them

 

[Dennis Griffith]

I've looked at their site, as well as Ohio State and UofK, and several others. I pull what I see as pertinent info from each, but lean more on OSU and UofK as they are closer to me and see many of the same issues. I also grow fruit trees and try to find a 'one size fits all' with my spray program, which is a tough act. Some of the most widely used stuff (ie, Abound) for grapes is a no no for fruit trees. But thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Masbustelo]

Dennis Griffith After I prune, which was April 1st for me this year. I spray with dormant oil and Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide. I believe that leaf type Phylloxera can be gotten under control, or eliminated. Maybe the dormant oil helps.It would be a good idea, after leaf drop in early winter to apply the dormant oil and Copper fungicide in early winter as well. I also always use a spreader sticker. When the Japanese beetles show up, as soon as I spot any: I mix up some Sevin in a quart spray bottle and shoot them individually or in mass. Nothing less aggressive has worked for me. Supposedly a neem oil spray or two disrupts their reproduction cycle. I would suspect a periodic neem spray would help eliminate the Phylloxera if you have them. As well as the Sevin during the Beetle season. My biggest problem is Raccoons. In the city your not allowed to spray them with lead.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

I do include Neem in some of my mix, but not every spray. I, too, have read that it disrupts the reproductive cycle on JBs. I'll be spraying as soon as the weather breaks as it appears that the growing season is here!

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Dennis Griffith After I prune, which was April 1st for me this year. I spray with dormant oil and Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide. I believe that leaf type Phylloxera can be gotten under control, or eliminated. Maybe the dormant oil helps.It would be a good idea, after leaf drop in early winter to apply the dormant oil and Copper fungicide in early winter as well. I also always use a spreader sticker. When the Japanese beetles show up, as soon as I spot any: I mix up some Sevin in a quart spray bottle and shoot them individually or in mass. Nothing less aggressive has worked for me. Supposedly a neem oil spray or two disrupts their reproduction cycle. I would suspect a periodic neem spray would help eliminate the Phylloxera if you have them. As well as the Sevin during the Beetle season. My biggest problem is Raccoons. In the city your not allowed to spray them with lead.

Which Sevin do you use, the one that is Carbaryl based or the newer Zeta-Cypermethrin based one? The newer one works much better for me.

 

[Dennis Griffith]

Dennis Griffith After I prune, which was April 1st for me this year. I spray with dormant oil and Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide. I believe that leaf type Phylloxera can be gotten under control, or eliminated. Maybe the dormant oil helps.It would be a good idea, after leaf drop in early winter to apply the dormant oil and Copper fungicide in early winter as well. I also always use a spreader sticker. When the Japanese beetles show up, as soon as I spot any: I mix up some Sevin in a quart spray bottle and shoot them individually or in mass. Nothing less aggressive has worked for me. Supposedly a neem oil spray or two disrupts their reproduction cycle. I would suspect a periodic neem spray would help eliminate the Phylloxera if you have them. As well as the Sevin during the Beetle season. My biggest problem is Raccoons. In the city your not allowed to spray them with lead.

As for raccoons, I don't mind them as long as they stay digging around the bird feeders. I have a defense for them and they don't like it. I run 5' wire fence with electric tape at top. I live in a critter dense area and it's not just the raccoons that I have to contend with. Rabbits are the only thing that gets through the fence, and the black critter (dog) in the picture chases them out.

 

[Masbustelo]

My 'vineyard' layout is complicated, I cant figure out how to electrify it.