Strawberry Wine

[dcrnbrd]

WOW Thats a nice color for strawberry. Very clear also. I can only hope comes out that nice.

 

[joeswine]

SHORE SHES A BEAUTIFUL

 

[PeterZ]

You can always say that this wine has been fortified with iron for its health benefits. <g>

 

[scubaman2151]

Lol true.


Scuba

 

[scubaman2151]

Well I racked the wine into the secondary to let it finish fermenting. When I took the bag out and took out the saftey pins the metal finish was all on the bag. They werent rusted but if you look at a safety pin it is silver, well mine came out light black because all that silver part wore off. Do you guys think that will hurt the wine? Or will those silver particals come out when I filter it later on?

Scuba

 

[grapeman]

Scuba the safety pins are steel coated with zinc to make them the silver color. Zinc is not all that reactive and doesn't rust-just oxidizes. If you have a blackish color that is the oxidation. The color of the wine is not from rust. You will be fine, just don't use safety pins again.

 

[PeterZ]

Scuba, the silver part didn't come off. The black is a reaction of thesilver plating (probably nickel)with the sulfite in the wine, creating a nickel sulfide complex. This is actually a good thing, as it is very tenacious and inhibits corrosion of the underlying steel.


Any metal in our winemaking process that corrodes into the wine will react with the SO2 to form insoluble precipitates that will settle out with the lees. In fact, SO2 and other reduced sulfur compounds are used in industry to remove heavy metals from wastewater streams.

 

[grapeman]

Listen to Peter. He is right about the coating. It is likely nickel not zinc like I said(my mind shorted out and I thought nickel and typed zinc).

Most safety pins are constructed from wire made of either hardened brass or high carbon steel, which is then coated with nickel or gilt. To make a safety pin, the steel wire is plated in order to strengthen it against rust and corrosion. Brass wire will not rust. The prime reason for plating brass safety pins is to improve their appearance. A nickel plating will give the safety pin a silvery appearance. A gilt plating results in a gold colored finish. There are also black safety pins which are constructed using hardened brass wire, then coated in black.
You will not be able to determine whether a safety pin is made of brass or steel simply by its appearance, because brass safety pins may be plated in nickel, and have a silvery look, and steel pins may be gilted and have a gold appearance. Please refer to our Specification Charts for details regarding the construction of our various safety pins.
Since brass safety pins are more expensive than steel pins, they are usually chosen only when there is need for extra protection against the possibility of rust. If price is your main interest, however, ask us about our Econo-pins. Your savings in price is due to a construction of low carbon steel, plated in gilt or nickel; or for the greatest savings, low carbon steel, plated in zinc.

 

[Travisty]

Zinc is not all that reactive and doesn't rust-just oxidizes.

Warning: smart-a$$ comment following:


Technically, all rust is is the oxidation of iron, so really Zinc, in a way, does "rust."

 

[grapeman]

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/images/smilies/smiley2.gif[/img]

Huh? If rust is the oxidation of iron, why would that mean that zinc rusts?
I think what you meant is that most metals oxidize which is technically rust(but commonly refers to ferrous metals), so zinc rusts- a form commonly referred to as white rust.


If anybody is interested here is how iron rusts:



The rusting of iron is an electrochemical process that begins with the transfer of electrons from iron to oxygen.<SUP =reference id=_ref-2>[3]</SUP> The rate of corrosion is affected by water and accelerated by electrolytes, as illustrated by the effects of road salt (calcium chloride) on the corrosion of automobiles. The key reaction is the reduction of oxygen:
<DL>
<DD>O<SUB>2</SUB> + 4 e<SUP>-</SUP> + 2 H<SUB>2</SUB>O → 4 OH<SUP>-</SUP> </DD></DL>


Because it forms hydroxide ions, this process is strongly affected by the presence of acid. Indeed, the corrosion of most metals by oxygen is accelerated at low pH. Providing the electrons for the above reaction is the oxidation of iron that may be described as follows:
<DL>
<DD>Fe → Fe<SUP>2+</SUP> + 2 e<SUP>−</SUP> </DD></DL>


The following redox reaction also occurs in the presence of water and is crucial to the formation of rust:
<DL>
<DD>2 Fe<SUP>2+</SUP> + 0.5 O<SUB>2</SUB> → 2 Fe<SUP>3+</SUP> + O<SUP>2−</SUP> </DD></DL>


Additionally, the following multistep acid-base reactions affect the course of rust formation:
<DL>
<DD>Fe<SUP>2+</SUP> + 2 H<SUB>2</SUB>O ⇌ Fe(OH)<SUB>2</SUB> + 2 H<SUP>+</SUP>
<DD>Fe<SUP>3+</SUP> + 3 H<SUB>2</SUB>O ⇌ 2 Fe(OH)<SUB>3</SUB> + 3 H<SUP>+</SUP> </DD></DL>


as do the following dehydration equilibria:
<DL>
<DD>Fe(OH)<SUB>2</SUB> ⇌ FeO + H<SUB>2</SUB>O
<DD>Fe(OH)<SUB>3</SUB> ⇌ FeO(OH) + H<SUB>2</SUB>O
<DD>2 FeO(OH) ⇌ Fe<SUB>2</SUB>O<SUB>3</SUB> + H<SUB>2</SUB>O </DD></DL>


From the above equations, it is also seen that the corrosion products are dictated by the availability of water and oxygen. With limited dissolved oxygen, iron(II)-containing materials are favoured, including FeO and black lodestone (Fe<SUB>3</SUB>O<SUB>4</SUB>). High oxygen concentrations favour ferric materials with the nominal formulae Fe(OH)<SUB>3-x</SUB>O<SUB>x/2</SUB>. The nature of rust changes with time, reflecting the slow rates of the reactions of solids. Furthermore, these complex processes are affected by the presence of other ions, such as Ca<SUP>2+</SUP>, which both serve as an electrolyte, and thus accelerate rust formation, or combine with the hydroxides and oxides of iron to precipitate a variety of Ca-Fe-O-OH species.

 

[scubaman2151]

Lol thanks for the help guys, although I got lost after Travisty posted. Something came off of the pins becuase when I took them out there was little flecks of silver on the bag right where the pins were. But yeah lesson learned dont use saftey pins.

 

[Travisty]

I think what you meant is that most metals oxidize which is technically rust(but commonly refers to ferrous metals), so zinc rusts- a form commonly referred to as white rust.

Yeah, that is what I meant. You had said earlier that "zinc does not rust, it only oxidizes," as if rust was not simply an oxidized material itself.


I was only trying to make a joke, and I don't think it came across the way I intended over the interweb.My bad.

 

[PeterZ]

Apple, nice summary of the corrosion process. In the presence of SO3- you can also get iron pyrite - fool's gold.

 

[grapeman]

How is the strawberry doing Scuba? I hope it is beginning to clear a little so you don't need to worry about it. It will turn out great I'm sure.


Also, if you need help with the Concord vines on your Arbor, a few of the guys here have similar arbors they could give you a little pruning help also. Pop a few of your pictures here in the Home Vineyards section and just copy and paste text between two windows, one here and one from the other site. Bmorosco has a very similar arbor.

 

[scubaman2151]

Thanks for the help Apple. I will do that some time tonight. As for the wine it is coming along nice. Starting to clear and there seems to be quite a bit of sediment on the bottom. The color is ok, still more orange then anything else.


Scuba

 

[Guest]

Scub:
I've been laughing since I started reading this thread.


Rule number one in any wine making process is always practicehighsanitation.
Rule numberone in any process is that unknown shortcuts or substitutions usually lead to disaster.


My advice, for what it's worth,is simple here.


Buy an oversizedstraining bag from George (Fine Vine Wines).
1. There's no confusion as to how to seal it. If you tie an oversizedbag neck you don't have pins that rust, twisties that rust, yarn that might infect your wine with bacteria or any other uglies that could damage your precious product including fish guts or yard trimmings.
2. It's guaranteed to work properly. Manufacturers of wine straining bags guaranty their product from harmful meanies that might damage your precious product. Manufacturers of paint strainers, don't care.
3. Keep as much junk out of your wine as you can, including your hands. Nasty buggers don't you know? Just think where your hands have been all day and you might think twice about putting them in your wine much less your mouth. Use a stainless spoon after sanitizingto press your fruit pulp bag. That's all you really need anyway.
4. If you start your fermentation in a vessel that's at least 1/2 gallon more than your primary, hence the 7 gallon, plastic primary bucket, you'll have more than enough to transfer to your secondary 6 gallon carboy and still have more to top off and later back sweeten with.


Looking forward to the next thread!

 

[swillologist]

Heck handyman I thought you were supposed to use your bare feet to press your fruit plup bag.

I have been doing it wrong all this time

 

[Guest]

It's the toe cheese that really gives it mouthfeel.

 

[acesover]

hi i started a strawberry wine yesterday i only have laven 1118 yeast will it be ok or should i get the 1112? what would the difference be? thanks

 

[Wade E]

The 1112 might be a better bet as it is a slower fermentation and will bring out a little more flavor. The 1118 is labeled as good for white wines which is kind of weird cause it says its a fast fermenter and whites are supposed to ferment slow. I really dont think there is a heck of a difference between any of these yeasts besides alc. tolerences. There will be suttle differences but most wont ever tell the difference.