Sulfer smell and fast fermentation

[Turock]

That's correct, 4score. But the poster is a new winemaker using DAP. The 50% brix works OK BUT there are qualifiers to this which I didn't discuss because most new winemakers wouldn't understand it in the moment, as their head is already into the problem they're facing. AND the whole point with him was to have him deal with his H2S problem. We can discuss more of the technicalities of this, if you so choose. Second, or third nutrient additions have protocols on how much alcohol content is in the wine at the time . But as with everything in this hobby, there are even times you can get away with nutrient additions as late as 8 brix depending on what it is you're fermenting.

I'm just gonna disagree on the SO2 as a yeast stunner. Yes, it probably DOES happen but is no biggy when you're gonna dominate it with a known culture anyway. Getting the biologics under control is so very important as they can compete with your culture for the nutrient. And we SURE don't want THEM producing any type of profile in a wine.

 

[4score]

True.....I was referring to using Ferm-K as a nutrient/nitrogen source. I understand with DAP that adding at the 50% (half-way through fermentation) is common.

 

[Runningwolf]

I'm just gonna disagree on the SO2 as a yeast stunner. Yes, it probably DOES happen but is no biggy when you're gonna dominate it with a known culture anyway. Getting the biologics under control is so very important as they can compete with your culture for the nutrient. And we SURE don't want THEM producing any type of profile in a wine.

I agree if you make a good yeast starter using goferm it will become the dominate yeast. Some folks add fermaid in thirds at like 18-15-11 brix but I prefer to just add it all at around 15 brix. Even those who say they add it at those 3 levels there is no way they are going to hit it right most of the time. No one stands in front of the carboy 24/7 taking readings. Adding nutrients too late is not a good thing. Adding it all at around 15° I know I am getting it in early to assist the yeast to finish the job.
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I'm not recommending this but did you ever notice you don't even get nutrients with kits.

 

[ceeaton]

I think Mike (ibglowin) said that the kits come with the proper nutrition already added, but I may be mistaken. I have not used anything but GoFerm for my yeast starter on that last few kits I've made and have had no fermentation issues.

 

[ibglowin]

Yes it's listed on the box ingredients.

 

[Turock]

Runningwolf---Yes, but then sometimes it gets sticky if you just stay with numbers--that is, using brix for your nutrient additions. Especially the final dose. It depends on starting brix and even then, we're dealing with POTENTIAL alcohol. You don't really know exactly where that is. That's why many winemakers won't add anymore once they're at 16 or 18 brix. Scott Labs has a notation in one of their Fermentation Handbooks that uptake of nitrogen is inhibited above 10% alcohol. So if you keep that number in mind, it might be a better guide to the last addition, along with how active the ferment is. If its hot and rolling along, then the ferment needs some more nitrogen. If it's calming down, and not very active then you might want to forgo the nutrient because yeast can't utilize the nitrogen at that point.