Ohio Bob
Senior Member
Sounds good! Should we dose with more than 1 yeast?
I thought you were thinking about 4-5 yeasts? If you’re only going to do 1 yeast then please pull my suggestion for RP15. I in no way want to hijack this experiment.
Sounds good! Should we dose with more than 1 yeast?
I'm fine with this if we blend. I think I'd want to do it before press, thoughts?Don't complicate the bookkeeping. Label the batches #1 and #2, and post fermentation they'll be blended, so it will be just one batch. Things may be complicated for a week or two, then it's steady state.
This is intended to be a forum-led wine make! No bad suggestions. I love all these yeast suggestions! So far we are planning on rp15 for a batch (feel free to add more if you'd like!) and bm4x4 and/or amh on a second ferment. Then blend after/before(tbd) pressI thought you were thinking about 4-5 yeasts? If you’re only going to do 1 yeast then please pull my suggestion for RP15. I in no way want to hijack this experiment.
Last fall I used Renaissance Avante and Bravo for separate batches of Chambourcin, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, blending after fermentation.I'm fine with this if we blend. I think I'd want to do it before press, thoughts?
I think I'm going to do a pump over for a few hours tomorrow. I realize this isn't something a home winemaker will likely have, but a home winemaker probably doesn't have to stir 20+ gallons at time lolI'd stir twice a day, as much as possible, until the temperature hits 17 C / 63 F. At that point I'd make the starter around 6PM and plan to inoculate in the morning.
I make 8 lug batches, typically fermented in 4 lug grouping for manageability. We have members who buy 1,000+ lb lots ... so you'd be surprised what folks do.I think I'm going to do a pump over for a few hours tomorrow. I realize this isn't something a home winemaker will likely have, but a home winemaker probably doesn't have to stir 20+ gallons at time lol
Stirring it is!I make 8 lug batches, typically fermented in 4 lug grouping for manageability. We have members who buy 1,000+ lb lots ... so you'd be surprised what folks do.
In 2022 and 2023, I posted polls asking how much wine folks make. Here's the 2023 poll.
https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/how-much-wine-do-you-make-2023.77755/
Pumpover is fine, I have no opinion other than if the must is mixed as it defrosts, it will be more homogeneous when you check SG and inoculate.Stirring it is!
Well, I'll go in between! The grapes are in a false bottom fermenter. So I drop a gallon at a time and pour over manually.Pumpover is fine, I have no opinion other than if the must is mixed as it defrosts, it will be more homogeneous when you check SG and inoculate.
Well, I'll go in between! The grapes are in a false bottom fermenter. So I drop a gallon at a time and pour over manually.
I've never made wine from fresh grapes (yet) but IMO I'd be happy enough with anything above 21 brix but a little higher would be better if I was wanting a little more kick. I also think it's less about alcohol and more about finish and quality. I'd happily give up 1% to 2% abv for a better tasting wine.Temp is raising nicely! Hoping to see a little more sugar tomorrow and then we can make some choices. In
the spirit of making a wine together, what would you do:
1. Do we want to do a more accurate pH test?
2. Do we want to boost/add sugar (chaptalize is the fancy word for this) this must assuming we stay around 21-22°? (This is a common practice)
Personal opinion only: Normally I would not mess with pH that's this close to optimal already, so I don't see a need to. I have no opinion on chaptalization. Very interested in everyone's opinions!
Nope. The pH is in the middle of a good range so relatively minor differences will not matter.1. Do we want to do a more accurate pH test?
If making a bigger red, I'd chaptalize to 24 brix, which should produce a bit over 14% ABV. For a lighter wine, 21-22 brix is fine.2. Do we want to boost/add sugar (chaptalize is the fancy word for this) this must assuming we stay around 21-22°? (This is a common practice)
I'd be happy enough with anything above 21 brix but a little higher would be better
I have a feeling the sugar content will continue to rise as it reaches room temp and sits on the skins. It will rise further if we use enzymes to help with grape flesh breakdown, but freezing also does this nicely (which it was). Let's aim for 14% ABV as we go.If making a bigger red, I'd chaptalize to 24 brix, which should produce a bit over 14% ABV
For Zinfandel, this is a positive, but it also depends. From a taste perspective, sweetness masks and modifies acid and tannin, in fact it's more or less impossible (for me) to taste a whole lot through a ton of sugar. A very sweet zin that has a good pH balance is a good thing. A very sweet zin that is acidic is a red flag but not a deal breaker especially if you like acid; it just means that your must may be sweeter than you can actually taste. A blander than normal zin, again by taste, not measure, that is also acidic is probably must I would chose to make into something else (port, juice) or blend with something that isn't acidic enough, etc. A bland zin that is basic is not something I really see, but I don't think I'd try to use it. Typically an acidic zin that is dry must is simply a bad harvest, probably much too early or unsorted to the point of ruining it. I hope that helps. Like @winemaker81 said, taste is the ultimate measure, not your tools. Your tools are only there to create a baseline, consistency, and detect what your tongue can't--yet. In the end, once you complete a fermentation and there's very little sugar left, all those things your tools could detect and you couldn't will be, for better or worse, very apparent.When you say the wine is very sweet, is this a negative or positive in your experience with zin? Is this out of the ordinary? In your experience, does this perceived extra sweetness transfer over to the finished product? What is your take on this?
Enter your email address to join: