I probably should have said acetic acid or volatile acid, as it’s present in all wine to varying degrees: There's Vinegar In My Wine!. I suspect it may be what I’m tasting in the low/no sulfited French wines I like in a slightly higher concentration than we typically expect to find in a bottle of wine.
I really like this interview with another of my favorite winemakers, Mattieu Lapierre: Terroir and Technique in Beaujolais: Talking Natural Wines with Mathieu Lapierre | Wine Spectator. His father Marcel reintroduced a lot of the traditional ‘natural’ techniques to the cru Beaujolais Morgon region but Matthieu explains why he thinks complete nonintervention is unwise. He actually will tolerate 400-600 mg/L of VA depending on the richness of the wine, but works hard to control it. I like this quote: ‘VA “is a component of wine, but you should never seek it out,” he says and laughs. “There is always enough!”’ I’ve had both the Lapierre Morgon and their Raisins Gaulois a couple of times and both are delightful. I actually have a bottle of Georgian wine I brought back on my last trip to Tbilisi that I want to share with you one of these times we get together that I think is a fair example of what I’m thinking of. I’d be interested in your reaction.
I'd like that, I really need to explore wines from different regions.