I should really try that cold storage thing. Wines that age over the winter see temps around 54* down there. Wonder if that's enough.
WineXpert LE Super Tuscan
- Thread starter jgmann67
- Start date
Help Support Winemaking Talk - Winemaking Forum:
If you can store your red wines at 54 for several months and they don't drop diamonds, then you shouldn't have a problem with them, assuming you don't chill your wine any cooler than that after bottling. Right now, I bulk age in my house at 70-75, but when bottles go into my refrigerated cellars at 55, I get some diamonds.
There's no need to cool wine to close to freezing to precipitate, unless you just want to do it fast, or you intend one day to put your bottles in an ice chest.
When my wine room is done, it'll be at 55, and all of my bulk aging in carboys and barrels will take place there, as well as bottle storage. Once the bulk aging is over, precipitation has taken place, if any, and the wine goes into bottles, I don't expect to see any more.
Remember that the effects of cold stabilization on wine isn't always going to cause the Ph to rise, Ph 3.6 is the divining line, you can make an acidic wine more acidic by cold stabilizing.
I thought it was (since my basement is about the same winter temp as yours), then I had some settle out in my Diablo Rojo and Chardonel. I've had them in commercial wine, so I don't think it's a really big deal. We're putting too much effort into these fine details, nice to make the perfect bottle of wine, but the bottles with the diamonds taste good too. Plus you can use it to show your wine drinking friends just how smart you are since you know how and why they form in the first place.
So Mrs Mann selected a Super Tuscan for dinner last night at Pizza Grille (excellent local BYO joint). I'm thinking she must've picked the last bottle from the carboy. It's was pretty cloudy (especially compared to the dozen or so ST's I've had so far from this batch).
The lesson is always bottle from a fresh carboy, free of any sediment. Ah well. I know better now. Another Super Tuscan will start sometime over the summer. Maybe early September.
The lesson is always bottle from a fresh carboy, free of any sediment. Ah well. I know better now. Another Super Tuscan will start sometime over the summer. Maybe early September.
![[Upgraded] 9Pcs Tree Root Growing Box with Drain Holes, Half Transparent Plant Rooting Propagation Ball & Metal Core Twist Ties, for Fast Propagation Plants (Size M)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/514MWQxtWOL._SL500_.jpg)
We're down to our last 6 bottles of the LE Super Tuscan (4 in storage, 2 in rotation). The Bravado is still a youngster, but is already a much better wine than the LE. I will say, though, that the LE has vastly improved over time and seems to have gotten over its "middle child" syndrome.
Rtrent2002
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2014
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 8
Just started a super Tuscan (RJS). Any recs based on outcome of your batch? What went well? Anything you would have done different?
Well to start, I would have bought the same kit as you, instead of the LE14. Some thoughts:
* if your kits comes with rc212 yeast and another (like an E1118), use the RC and forget the other unless your wine stalls.
* keep your wine on the cooler side while in the primary to prolong exposure to the skins (68 F) if you can. Just keep an eye on it towards the end of primary fermentation to guard against stalling.
* punch your skins at least 2x a day to get as much grapey goodness as you can from them.
* think about additional oak (like a medium to a medium+ cube of your liking). Kits are usually lacking in this arena. I think 60-90 gr of good oak during bulk aging makes for a great wine.
* bulk age 6-9 months before bottling.
