Newbie

[plumcrazy]

Hey everyone I just moved into a house that has a plum tree and got about 9lbs of plums off of it before the animals attacked it. I have never tried making wine but want to give it a try. I was wondering how much wine this would make? I bought two three gallon containers and was wondering if these are big enough.

 

[winemaker81]

Welcome to WMT!

A general rule of thumb for fruit is 5 to 6 lbs per gallon of water, although for heavier fruit like Elderberry it's possible to use less, and there's no down side to adding more fruit.

If it were me, I'd go with 1-1/4 gallons of water for 9 lbs fruit. I like fruit wines to taste like fruit, so more fruit is better.

Note that you'll have more volume from the liquid in the plums, but you'll lose volume to sediment and with each racking. You should get at least 1 US gallon / 4 liters of finished wine from it. Collect smaller containers to hold any overage, and use that to top up the jug after a racking.

Do you have a recipe, or is your question part of the "what do I do?" process? [Trust me that asking questions before doing is the wisest course!]

Folks that make plum wine can advise you better, so my advice is a starting point.

I've written a couple of posts that may help you in understanding the process:

https://wine.bkfazekas.com/basic-winemaking-process/

https://wine.bkfazekas.com/fixing-fruit-wine-recipes/

 

[BigDaveK]

Can't really add to what @winemaker81 said other than...Welcome to WMT!

 

[Rice_Guy]

welcome to WMT
Plums like peaches and apples continue to ripen after they are picked. , , , with peach and plum I pick at a firm state > then hold them at room temp in flat ALDIs boxes two or four days till they are soft to the touch > then pit and freeze till use.
I do a lot of mixed ferments. ex peach at pH 4.3 with rhubarb at pH 3.2. My goal is to have lots of fruit aroma and a pH between 3.2 to 3.5. ,,, Acid is part of the formula that makes grapes good to ferment. Country wines have to copy grapes.

 

[David Violante]

Welcome to WMT!

 

[winemaker81]

@plumcrazy, I assume it was you who posed a question on my site. You should receive notification of my reply, but I'll answer here as well.

You want a container that will be no more than 3/4 full when your must is assembled, meaning the fruit, water, and everything else involved. If you have a very vigorous fermentation it's possible to get a "boilover", which is messy and wasteful.

You can buy 7.9 gallon fermenters with lids from a LHBS. If you don't have a store near you, there are numerous online retailers who will ship.

Home Depot sells the orange 5 gallon buckets, which are food grade. 5 gallons is plenty for your current batch.

I use Rubbermaid Brutes (20 and 32 gallon) for large batches. These are purchased new for the purpose ... don't repurpose an existing trash can!

Other food grade containers can be used, but be cautious of smell. A pickle bucket is NOT a good choice.

 

[plumcrazy]

I have 3 gallon containers but from what I have read they are to big for just 9 pounds of plums. I think it would work for the first phase of fermentation but would be to much when I extract the pulp and just the liquid is left. Am I wrong or would a 2 gallon glass container be better. I might be completely wrong, but wouldn't I have to add to much water to get it close enough to the top in a 3 gallon container for 9 lbs of plums.

 

[Ohio Bob]

I have 3 gallon containers but from what I have read they are to big for just 9 pounds of plums. I think it would work for the first phase of fermentation but would be to much when I extract the pulp and just the liquid is left. Am I wrong or would a 2 gallon glass container be better. I might be completely wrong, but wouldn't I have to add to much water to get it close enough to the top in a 3 gallon container for 9 lbs of plums.

I assume you mean you have (1) 3 gallon container, and not 3 (1) gallon containers. You want to have an oversized container for the initial fermentation. You will be stirring the must twice daily to keep the skins/pulp from forming a cap, and the cap drying out. All you need is a loose fitting lid or simply a towel.

Once the SG gets to near done, then you want to remove the skins and pulp, squeezing them in a mesh bag to get as much liquid out as possible. Now you want the wine in a container that has minimal headspace and is capable of taking an airlock. Never add water only to top off your wine. Use a store bought wine, even if it’s a red wine, or even a white wine. Doesn’t have to be a fruit wine.

 

[winemaker81]

Adding onto Bob's good advice, fermentation is best done in an open container. Yeast needs O2 for reproduction, so fermenting in a closed container slows reproduction. You want happy yeast.

Also, trying to get fruit solids in through the neck of a carboy or jug is an exercise in masochism. Getting them out is far worse. And as Bob said, you need to stir the must during the ferment.

I think it would work for the first phase of fermentation but would be to much when I extract the pulp and just the liquid is left.

You'll get a better wine if fermenting on the skins and pulp. Plus you'll get more liquid volume from the pomace (skins & pulp) after fermentation, as the cells are broken down.

Another tip -- freeze the fruit before fermentation to help break down the fruit. Adding pectic enzyme will help as well, plus will eliminate any potential for pectin haze.

 

[plumcrazy]

Than

Adding onto Bob's good advice, fermentation is best done in an open container. Yeast needs O2 for reproduction, so fermenting in a closed container slows reproduction. You want happy yeast.

Also, trying to get fruit solids in through the neck of a carboy or jug is an exercise in masochism. Getting them out is far worse. And as Bob said, you need to stir the must during the ferment.


You'll get a better wine if fermenting on the skins and pulp. Plus you'll get more liquid volume from the pomace (skins & pulp) after fermentation, as the cells are broken down.

Another tip -- freeze the fruit before fermentation to help break down the fruit. Adding pectic enzyme will help as well, plus will eliminate any potential for pectin haze.

OK thank you

 

[Jovimaple]

Welcome to WMT!

 

[plumcrazy]

Welcome to WMT!

A general rule of thumb for fruit is 5 to 6 lbs per gallon of water, although for heavier fruit like Elderberry it's possible to use less, and there's no down side to adding more fruit.

If it were me, I'd go with 1-1/4 gallons of water for 9 lbs fruit. I like fruit wines to taste like fruit, so more fruit is better.

Note that you'll have more volume from the liquid in the plums, but you'll lose volume to sediment and with each racking. You should get at least 1 US gallon / 4 liters of finished wine from it. Collect smaller containers to hold any overage, and use that to top up the jug after a racking.

Do you have a recipe, or is your question part of the "what do I do?" process? [Trust me that asking questions before doing is the wisest course!]

Folks that make plum wine can advise you better, so my advice is a starting point.

I've written a couple of posts that may help you in understanding the process:

https://wine.bkfazekas.com/basic-winemaking-process/

https://wine.bkfazekas.com/fixing-fruit-wine-recipes/

It is what do I do. I have 9lbs of plums. My main questions would be how much sugar to use when I start the fermentation process and what needs to be added. I have pectic enzine to help with hazing. I have watched so many videos and each one is different I'm more confused by the process then when I started. Lol this is a picture of what I have.

 

[plumcrazy]

Plus do you boil the water to kill all the nasties or use cool water.

 

[winemaker81]

It is what do I do. I have 9lbs of plums. My main questions would be how much sugar to use when I start the fermentation process and what needs to be added. I have pectic enzine to help with hazing. I have watched so many videos and each one is different I'm more confused by the process then when I started. Lol this is a picture of what I have.

YouTube is one of the best sites on the net, as there is a wealth of useful information there.

It's also the most dangerous site on the net because anyone with a web cam but without a clue can post a video.

Skip the videos and keep asking questions here, where you have a large group of experienced winemakers who are well versed in helping people. More importantly, we cross check each other so you'll get solid information. Everyone who has responded to this thread (posting or clicking Like) is an experienced winemaker whose opinions are solid.

However, keep in mind that there are diametrically opposed schools of thought in winemaking that are all perfectly valid. I suggest you pay attention to "why" someone does what they do, as that will help you make decisions.

On to your questions:

I do not apply heat to wine. Heat + fruit = activated pectin, which is to be avoided. I don't pasteurize wine either. You're adding K-meta (Campden) while is anti-microbial and using commercial yeast, which is cultured for properties such as stomping out the competition.

Regarding sugar, 1 lb (2-1/4 cups) sugar dissolved in 1 US gallon of water produces SG 1.045. Mix your fruit and water, and stir it well. Take an SG reading and subtract that from your target SG. For instance if your must's SG is 1.045 and your target is 1.090, adding 1 lb sugar per gallon should hit your target. I suggest you put in a bit less than you think you need, then stir VERY well. Then stir it again (nope, not joking). Then take an SG reading and add more sugar if necessary. Keep in mind that it's a lot easier to add more sugar than to take some out ...

Add 1 Campden, WELL crushed, per gallon, plus pectic enzyme. Let it rest overnight with a towel over the bucket.

I suggest making an overnight starter (https://wine.bkfazekas.com/how-to-make-a-yeast-starter/). In the morning, stir the must again and re-check the SG. Adjust the SG if necessary.

Then add nutrient and the starter. I don't normally use energizer, but it doesn't hurt to use it.

Sorbate? DO NOT add it now. Sorbate + K-meta = birth control for yeast, used to prevent a renewed fermentation in the bottle. If you are backsweetening the wine, sorbate is added at backsweetening time, which is near or at bottling time, which is months from now.

 

[plumcrazy]

YouTube is one of the best sites on the net, as there is a wealth of useful information there.

It's also the most dangerous site on the net because anyone with a web cam but without a clue can post a video.

Skip the videos and keep asking questions here, where you have a large group of experienced winemakers who are well versed in helping people. More importantly, we cross check each other so you'll get solid information. Everyone who has responded to this thread (posting or clicking Like) is an experienced winemaker whose opinions are solid.

However, keep in mind that there are diametrically opposed schools of thought in winemaking that are all perfectly valid. I suggest you pay attention to "why" someone does what they do, as that will help you make decisions.

On to your questions:

I do not apply heat to wine. Heat + fruit = activated pectin, which is to be avoided. I don't pasteurize wine either. You're adding K-meta (Campden) while is anti-microbial and using commercial yeast, which is cultured for properties such as stomping out the competition.

Regarding sugar, 1 lb (2-1/4 cups) sugar dissolved in 1 US gallon of water produces SG 1.045. Mix your fruit and water, and stir it well. Take an SG reading and subtract that from your target SG. For instance if your must's SG is 1.045 and your target is 1.090, adding 1 lb sugar per gallon should hit your target. I suggest you put in a bit less than you think you need, then stir VERY well. Then stir it again (nope, not joking). Then take an SG reading and add more sugar if necessary. Keep in mind that it's a lot easier to add more sugar than to take some out ...

Add 1 Campden, WELL crushed, per gallon, plus pectic enzyme. Let it rest overnight with a towel over the bucket.

I suggest making an overnight starter (https://wine.bkfazekas.com/how-to-make-a-yeast-starter/). In the morning, stir the must again and re-check the SG. Adjust the SG if necessary.

Then add nutrient and the starter. I don't normally use energizer, but it doesn't hurt to use it.

Sorbate? DO NOT add it now. Sorbate + K-meta = birth control for yeast, used to prevent a renewed fermentation in the bottle. If you are backsweetening the wine, sorbate is added at backsweetening time, which is near or at bottling time, which is months from now.

Thank you.

 

[Hazelemere]

Welcome to WMT!

A general rule of thumb for fruit is 5 to 6 lbs per gallon of water, although for heavier fruit like Elderberry it's possible to use less, and there's no down side to adding more fruit.

If it were me, I'd go with 1-1/4 gallons of water for 9 lbs fruit. I like fruit wines to taste like fruit, so more fruit is better.

Note that you'll have more volume from the liquid in the plums, but you'll lose volume to sediment and with each racking. You should get at least 1 US gallon / 4 liters of finished wine from it. Collect smaller containers to hold any overage, and use that to top up the jug after a racking.

Do you have a recipe, or is your question part of the "what do I do?" process? [Trust me that asking questions before doing is the wisest course!]

Folks that make plum wine can advise you better, so my advice is a starting point.

I've written a couple of posts that may help you in understanding the process:

https://wine.bkfazekas.com/basic-winemaking-process/

https://wine.bkfazekas.com/fixing-fruit-wine-recipes/

make sure to pit them

 

[winemaker81]

@plumcrazy, my Whitepapers page has a bunch of short posts that may help you understand the overall process, and dive into detail on specific points. These posts are a record of how I do things, and while there are other good options, my posts give you a starting point.

Also, I recorded very detailed notes on specific batches in my Wines In Details page. These are very detailed and include a lot of photos. Most are regarding kit wines, but the overall winemaking process is the same regardless of what you're fermenting.


I just noticed that I last updated my Vidal In Detail post on 06/10/2043. This is absolutely amazing!!! I'm going to invent a time machine!!!

Now I'm wondering what is so important about a white wine that I traveled 20 years back in time to update a web page ... I guess I'll find out in 20 years.

 

[plumcrazy]

@plumcrazy, my Whitepapers page has a bunch of short posts that may help you understand the overall process, and dive into detail on specific points. These posts are a record of how I do things, and while there are other good options, my posts give you a starting point.

Also, I recorded very detailed notes on specific batches in my Wines In Details page. These are very detailed and include a lot of photos. Most are regarding kit wines, but the overall winemaking process is the same regardless of what you're fermenting.


I just noticed that I last updated my Vidal In Detail post on 06/10/2043. This is absolutely amazing!!! I'm going to invent a time machine!!!

Now I'm wondering what is so important about a white wine that I traveled 20 years back in time to update a web page ... I guess I'll find out in 20 years.

Thank you.

 

[plumcrazy]

Thank you.

When I am just starting. When the 9lbs of plums are ready to make just the juice do I use only the one gallon of water with a campden tablet and let sit for 24 hours with it sealed or with just a towel over the top.

 

[winemaker81]

When I am just starting. When the 9lbs of plums are ready to make just the juice do I use only the one gallon of water with a campden tablet and let sit for 24 hours with it sealed or with just a towel over the top.

just a towel.