Not sure if it compares to a NB, but to me the taste is sort of cotton candy like. I've always attributed it to both sorbate and drinking kits too early. I don't notice it at all once I quit using any of the kit chems, (no sorbate, no bentonite, no chitosan, none of that stuff) started barrel aging, and let the wine grow up.
I just sacrificed three bottles of wine and a topper for a carboy for this discussion and blind taste tested with the most tuned nose and taste buds I could find (my wife)...then retested with the neighbors.
Bottle 1
Fontana Cab Sauv made 6/15 with sorbate and clarifiers, no barrel aging and by the book directions.
Bottle 2
Fontana Cab Sauv made 12/15 with bentonite and sulphites with RC212 yeast. Add currants, a dash of coffee, finishing tannin and the leftovers from CC showcase amarone. Barrel aged 6 weeks (newer barrel). bottled 10/16
Bottle 3
WE Stags Leap Merlot. Cannot find note but started around 4-5/15 and made by the book.
Bottle 4
WE stags leap merlot made 1/16. BM4x4 yeast, nothing but sulphites. Same as bottle 2 above without the coffee and barrel aged 9 weeks (might go back in barrel at some point), still in glass carboy that I had to top off.
Bottle 1
Wife: weird taste and nose for a wine...not good and wouldn't let the dog drink it. I could not get cotton candy or geraniums directly from her, but she alluded to a weird candy or sweet taste.
Neighbors: Not your best wine (they are nice people). Probing further elicited "please don't give us this for Christmas".
Bottle 2
Wife: Nice full wine. Nice body and aroma. I would drink this any day. Not a huge cab, but a well bodied wine.
Neighbors: This is goooooooooood. More please!
Bottle 3
Wife: Same weird flavor as first wine, just not quite as pronounced. Still not a good wine. I would drink it if its all we had...but lets not let it come to that.
Neighbors: Better than 1 but not your best. "Please don't give us this for Christmas". They agreed after soliciting more info that there was an off flavor on both 1 & 3.
Bottle 4
Wife: Nice wine but too fruity or something (she didn't know it was young). Its good but something missing and I like 2 better. (wine still has a little gas in it as well)
Neighbors: Me likey this wine.
I knew the fontana doctored cab was good, but am still surprised it turned out this good. I just pitched a double batch of it after amazon got it back in stock this week. One thing that still has me puzzled is the 750ml bottles taste fantastic, while the 1500ml bottles seem to still be in bottle shock and are a completely different flavor.
Dans, I am sure its either the clarifiers or the sorbate...and I would bet you the farm its the sorbate. I tasted all four bottles as well but do not have the refined, nose or palate of my wife. I can taste the sweetness in the by the book wines, and its a little bit off tasting, but would not stop me from drinking completely where my wife thinks barfola. I really believe barrel again ANY kit will improve it dramatically. I do not think you can approach a nicer commercial wine with a kit wine without barrel aging. I disagree with your opinion that a kit wine cannot rival a $15-25 wine. After making the old lodi zin kits I cringe buying a commerical zin any longer without dropping $40+ for a comparable zin. I am sure you could do even better with fresh grapes, I just don't have the time to pursue this part of the hobby at this point in my life, but will in a few years.
My advice to you is:
Spend some time on this site (and others) and find out why and how people make good wines from kits. You kinda come off as a jerk knocking a hobby of 50%+ of the peeps on this site who enjoy making and drinking kit wines in your first post.
If you don't want to take the time to do the research, then spend your time and money on something else and buy commercial wines.
If you do the research start with less expensive kits that you tweek to good wines, and then buy more expensive kits to make really good wine.