SG,
I have never heard of dry brining. Care to elaborate how this is done and what it does for the steak? Sounds very interesting.
Sorry, I thought this was widespread knowledge. You just dump a bunch of kosher salt on both sides of the steak, completely covering it. You let it rest for a period of time, then you rinse it off. I set a timer for 10 minutes, so I don't forget. It can get too salty if you let it go too long. As I say, you then rinse the salt off, and then I dry it with paper towels so it can brown nicely.
Brining has a few nice benefits. One, of course, is the delicious salty taste! But also the salt causes some beneficial changes in the protein structure of the muscle. Counterintuitively, these changes both dry the surface,
and make it more juicy. Brining also serves to tenderize the affected areas.
How? Well, when you put salt on the surface, osmosis drives moisture from the muscle to the salt outside. But then the salt diffuses into the muscle, and serves to denature the muscle proteins. As described by
Harold McGee, “the salt begins to modify the meat. The sodium attaches to the long, intertwined muscle proteins and causes the proteins to push apart from one another. This … weakens the muscle fibers,” and it “disrupts the structure of the muscle filaments.” You can see why this serves to make the meat more tender. But why does it make it more juicy?
We need to stop and ask why overcooked meat is dry to begin with. In addition to simply drying out due to heat, there is another deleterious effect. Normally, the muscle fibers contract upon heating, and expel the moisture that is held between the muscle fibers. After the modification by the salt, however, the muscle fibers cannot contract in the same way, so they don’t lose as much moisture. (They still lose some, just not as much as they usually would.)
Now, all of this is true both for wet brining (i.e., soaking in a saline solution) and for dry brining. Wet brining is better in many ways, as additional water diffuses in to partially offset the moisture that is inevitably lost. This is why I like to brine my turkey, for example. But, for meats that I want to brown, I prefer dry brining. Partially drying the surface of your steak with chemicals (e.g., salt) means you don’t need to spend time for the heat of your fire (or frying pan) to dry it. Rather, you start to get the delicious
Mailliard reactions going sooner. So, you can get a nicely seared steak before you overcook (and dry out!) the inside.
When I dry-brine a steak, it is only for 10 minutes, so really only the surface region gets affected. Thus, all the stuff I wrote there about moisture is not so important in the case of a steak -- it is mostly about the sear. (It is important if you wet-brine a turkey overnight, however.)
On a related note, you should try the Cafe Zuni-style dry-salted roasted chicken:
http://www.eater.com/2013/10/8/6362421/zuni-cafes-roast-chicken-for-two