WineXpert Would heat shrink capsules prevent mold problem?

[Luc]

Capsules have a tiny hole in the top through which air can enter the small space between the capsule and the cork. So no way they are air-tight. You can see that hole when you put the capsule on in boiling water, some air will escape through the hole.

Waxing is a better option.

Luc

 

[Bartman]

Yeah, I think Luc is right. There *should* be a tiny hole for air to escape if you are heating the capsules from the bottom up, in which case the cork would be directly exposed to the clorox. So I retract what I suggested before - don't do it!

On second thought, it was really a test. Only RunningWolf passed! LOL

 

[Chilled]

It looks like waxing is the winner.

Thanks to all of you for the time and thought you have put into this to help me out.
Looks like I need to try and countersink my corks the 1/4" and add the wax at about 180*.
That sounds like a good idea, Thanks Doug and Dan.
I guess I should bottle, let the bottles stand upright for about 3 days and then add the wax.

Dan,
Do you find that your wine ages slower in the bottle with the wax?
Do you bulk age to where you want it first, then bottle?

Dave

 

[Runningwolf]

I'm not sure what the 180* is, I just heat it on low until its all melted. If it starts to smoke, you know you went to hot and shut the burner off and stir it until it's melted. I can't honestly tell you about aging faster or slower. Wine does age faster in the bottle than it does in a carboy.

 

[Brew and Wine Supply]

using was lower than 180* will not sanitize as well.

 

[jimmyjames23]

I suck at putting on heat shrinks. But you will notice a few small holes on the top. Those are to allow the cork to breath. Corks are not airtight. They breath to allow a very small amour of air in/out which aids in aging. I don't know how wax would affect this but I think you would effectively cut of all air. Just a thought.

 

[Chilled]

Thanks Dan,

I'll heat the wax slowly and watch for smoke.

Dave

 

[Brew and Wine Supply]

If you have an electric stove, it works well. If using gas, do a double boiler where you have a pan of water first, the the pan of wax. Use a thermometer to gauge the temp of the wax. If its over 200* you will get smoke.

 

[jimmyjames23]

Using a steam kettle works well.

[ame]http://youtu.be/zlqXRKhVQHU[/ame]

 

[Runningwolf]

I'll heat the wax slowly and watch for smoke.

Dave

I'll clue you in with a real time saver. I do eveything in the basement so going up to the kitchen would be a pita. For $20 I bought a hot plate on amazon (solid surface not a coil). Each time I went to Walmart I bought these cute little sauce pans for $4.00 each. I have one for each color of wax. No mess to clean up and no waste in the end. Above all I keep mama happy!

 

[Chilled]

Little things can make a difference

Thanks for the details and tips.
That is one reason experience is so valuable.

Dave

 

[Paradoxnightmare]

I'll clue you in with a real time saver. I do eveything in the basement so going up to the kitchen would be a pita. For $20 I bought a hot plate on amazon (solid surface not a coil). Each time I went to Walmart I bought these cute little sauce pans for $4.00 each. I have one for each color of wax. No mess to clean up and no waste in the end. Above all I keep mama happy!

Can't remember where but someone said they use an empty washed out soup can for their waxes. They are more narrow than a pot so you use less wax and you can just throw the can away when finished. They put the can in a pan with some water in it to regulate temp and get a surrounding heat.

 

[Chilled]

Runningwolf

Dan,
Do you use 1-3/4" corks or 1-1/2" when countersinking and covering with wax?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Runningwolf]

I use 1-3/4" corks.

 

[Brew and Wine Supply]

@ Paradox, don't throw the can away, put some plastic wrap over it and save it till next time.

 

[Runningwolf]

Can't remember where but someone said they use an empty washed out soup can for their waxes. They are more narrow than a pot so you use less wax and you can just throw the can away when finished. They put the can in a pan with some water in it to regulate temp and get a surrounding heat.

That is an excellent idea IF your going to dip your bottles. I do not dip mine. I buy very cheap ( less than a dollar for about 4-6) metal spoons at Walmart and place just enough on each bottle to fill the void where I counter sunk the cork. I use a different pan for each color and never clean it out. Using cans, why would you throw them away and waste the wax? Just reuse them.

 

[saramc]

That is an excellent idea IF your going to dip your bottles. I do not dip mine. I buy very cheap ( less than a dollar for about 4-6) metal spoons at Walmart and place just enough on each bottle to fill the void where I counter sunk the cork. I use a different pan for each color and never clean it out. Using cans, why would you throw them away and waste the wax? Just reuse them.

I do the soup can thing, and I also have been known to use a long tea spoon to fill the offset corks when I go that route. Even have a snazzy dragonfly stamp to put impression in the wax, regardless if I dip or I spoon. Also with the new can openers that cut the lid off a can without a sharp edge you have a simple lid. I can fit quite a few soup cans in a crockpot water bath if I am doing different colors.

 

[jimmyjames23]

Are you using food grade wax pellets?

I saw them here at http://www.homebrewit.com/wine-making-bottle-wax.php

Apparently people just place 5-10 pellets on top of a slightly countersunk cork and pass a small blow torch over the top for a very short time.
No mess.

 

[Brew and Wine Supply]

Use cheese wax, just a bit softer but half the price.

 

[saramc]

I have also used paraffin that I color. Cheese wax is awesome to use! You can also find food grade sealing waxes, in colors, which are for use in glue guns. Think sealing a letter with a wax seal and signet ring.